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An appliqué design is basically where s design incorporates a section of fabric cut into a shape and secured to another fabric (your projects fabric) by blanket stitch or satin stitch. Digitizers automate the process in appliqué designs making the process of appliqué by machine embroidery simple and easy to do.
Appliqué is fun to do, quick and produces wonderful results without lots of stitching. Also great for children's clothing where you do not want too many stitches against the child's skin.
These instructions are designed for sewers who are new to machine embroidery appliqué and would like to see how it is done and how easy and fun it can be.
The instructions go through the process of doing a simple machine embroidery appliqué design from Bunnycup Embroidery’s School is Cool embroidery design set. The principals apply to any appliqué embroidery designs.
With Bunnycup Embroidery’s appliqué designs – in addition to these instructions, each design also includes a txt color chart which also has further instructions and the actual needle color changes. All of Bunnycup Embroidery’s appliqué designs are manually punched so that each step of the appliqué process is recognized as a distinct color change to ensure that your machine stops between each step. Some digitizers will put the steps of the appliqué process in the same color meaning that your machine will not automatically stop at each step.
An example of a text color chart follows this tutorial.
The first step of any project is to make sure you have the right materials. Suggested materials include:
• Embroidery machine • Embroidery threads • Your item to fabric you want to appliqué to • Appliqué machine embroidery design • Small pieces of fabric for the appliqués • Sharp small or curved scissors (I prefer sharp curved nail scissors as they get in the curves and trim well) • Stabilizer • Spray on adhesive (optional)
Properly stabilize and hoop your fabric. In this tutorial, the background fabric has been hooped with two pieces of medium stabilizer.
Stitch out the placement line as document in the text color chart. This stitches out a template which you will lay the appliqué fabric over.
Cut out a piece of fabric that will over the placement line. Place the fabric over the line you stitched. Some might like to spray the back of the appliqué fabric with spray on adhesive. Stitch the cutting line (as detailed in the text color charts).
Carefully remove the hoop from the machine. DO NOT UNHOOP. Using appliqué scissors (curved ones work very well), trim the appliqué fabric as close to the line as possible without cutting the stitching.
Replace the hoop in the machine. Proceed to the next step which will be either a tack down line or the appliqué satin stitch depending on the design. Refer to color chart for details of what step is next. A tack down line is sometimes used to further stabilize the material depending on the design.
Stitch the final step, being the satin stitch outline, inch marks and numbers in this case. Viola, the cutest little ruler that ever graced a school.
Appliqué designs typically come with a JPEG color chart and a text color chart. The JPEG color chart will show the digitized colors – but as each appliqué step is digitized in a different color to ensure your machine automatically stops at each appliqué step, you will also need to refer to the text color chart. The text color chart also includes some useful information as to the appliqué process. For this reason I have included an example of the text color chart for this particular design.
School is Cool Appliqué 1 Text Color Chart
Appliqué Information
You will see some colors that may be repeat colors, or many color changes in appliqué designs. It is important that you do not change the order to attempt to reduce the color changes. Many of the color changes are not actually color changes, rather are placement lines, cutting lines or tacking down lines. These are critical to the structure and success of your appliqué design. You will use the color of the appliqué stitch or a light plain color for placement, cutting or tack down lines rather than the color that shows up on your machine, software or that listed below.
Where the needle below says placement line - these stitches will stitch out a template on your fabric to show you where to place your appliqué fabric (i.e. on top of your other fabric). Please the appliqué stitch color or a light color for these lines.
After sewing out a placement line, place your appliqué fabric on top of your other fabric. It is suggested that you may use a light spray adhesive to attach the two fabrics together so that the appliqué fabric does not slip when the cutting line stitches out.
Where the needle below says cutting line, this is a line which you cut your appliqué fabric. It is recommended that you use a pair of nail scissors which will cut close to the cutting line. These can be purchased from embroidery shops or from pharmacies. Trim as close to the cutting line as you can without cutting the stitches.
Where the needle below says tack down line, this will stitch out a set of stitches to further tack down your fabric.
Where the needle below says appliqué stitch - this will stitch out the satin or blanket stitch forming the visible stitching of the appliqué.
If there is no notation against the color below, the color noted should be used as it is an object (filled part or decoration lines) in the design. Please note that from time to time, an object color will show in between steps in the appliqué - this is necessary detail that will show on your appliqué fabric.
4 Colors
Needle 1,White - PLACEMENT LINE Needle 2,Silver Gray - CUTTING LINE Needle 3,Gray - TACKDOWN LINE Needle 4,Black - APPLIQUE STITCH
This is a very common question that arises on many embroidery designs. There are a number of reasons as to why an outline may be off including;
If you are using a reputable and experienced digitizers design, the design in question will have been tested to ensure the outlines and components are properly in place and the underlying issue often is insufficient stabilization. I have included a section below as to some common stabilization techniques to help improve the performance of your stitch out.
Some common things to check when your outlines are off are:
Stabilization is tricky and complicated part of machine embroidery; however, it is also the underlying foundation of good embroidery. Without proper stabilization, designs may pucker or sag and outlines may be off, stitches may sink into the fabric or fabric might poke through the stitching. Stabilization is one specific areas that new comers to embroidery may not be knowledgeable and consequently is a common cause of heartache when stitching out designs.
Many experienced embroiderers have developed their own technique as to proper stabilization, including adhering the underlying stabilizer with and adhesive spray and stitching a template around the hoop to attaché the stabilizer to the fabric prior to stitching out a design. Once learning what stabilization is recommended for your design and fabric, try some of these techniques to see if they help you in your stitch out performance.
I have included below a basic chart of stabilizers and how they can be used:
Type of Stabilizer
Ideal for:
Comments
Tear-Away
Light to medium weight woven fabrics
Cutaway
Stretchy, unstable fabrics
Iron-On
Most fabrics – especially lightweight fabrics
Water-Soluable
Free Standing Lace Designs and topping on toweling, corduroy, velvet and knits
Sticky-Back
Fabric or quilts that can not been hooped
Heat Removable
Unwashable fabrics/projects and delicate fabrics
Spray Adhesives
Appliqués
The basic recommendation that I have here is to ensure the fabric is firm in the hoop – but not pulled excessively tightly or too loose as this again can effect the performance of your design.
The following table list design formats and the corresponding machine brand.
Format
Machine Brand
ART
Bernina
DST
Tajima
HUS
Husqvarna Viking
JEF
Janome/New Home
PCS
Pfaff
PES
Baby Lock, Bernina Deco, Brother
SEW
Elna, Janome/New Home, Kenmore
VIP
Husqvana Viking
XXX
Singer
